Hi.

I am back.

First of all, as far as that link goes, David Fosters comment is a winner, and that’s an understatement, especially in July-August in the Aegean. One word: Meltemi.

Second, don’t do business with these people. As it often happens, cheap solutions can turn very expensive, and the fact that a shipping company says they are insured does not necessarily mean they actually are.

Third: Turkey may be a great country to visit, but if you come in a private boat, choose a port of entry other than Marmaris (that is if you want to enter and leave Turkey legally, as I think anyone who watched Midnight Express probably does). If you do end up in Marmaris marina, though, and you have a refrigeration problem, look up Andreas. He is the Austrian guy who not only will tell you why your problem cannot be fixed, but also will help you live with it more easily (yes, there are easier ways to release the air from the cooling pump), and will help you with anything else he can, and will not charge you an arm and a leg.

Fourth, and this one was actually a surprise: if you have anything to do with boating, and you run into a guy named Steve Anderson around FL, you should know that he is an expert seaman, but is one of the lousiest human beings I have ever met. Truth be told, throughout my life I have actually met very few people that I can describe in such terms, so maybe I am overreacting. Still, be warned.

In a very sharp contrast to the latter, it is amazing how many wonderful people are out there.

Thanks to Simone and Claudio in La Spezia, who did all they could to help us fix the damages that the boat incurred during shipment, and to the rest of the citizens of that fine city, who truly know how to celebrate. Viva Italia, and, BTW, Zidane has demonstrated quite literally what testa di cazzo really means.

Thanks also to the great people of Perdika, who probably know very well what should be obvious: that a bay that is open to the NW provides no adequate shelter from a NW wind, and who are always ready to help those who may be oblivious to that simple fact, or who simply could find no other place to anchor that night. And they often do this at risk to themselves, and without expecting to be paid.

Thanks to the amazing family who owns the only taverna in Levitha. No, make that the only family in Levitha, who also happens to operate a taverna. No menu, but they do tell you that they have either fish or goat, and the choice is not as obvious as one might think. BTW, is goat kosher? Who cares, it’s so damn good!

Thanks to Yoni, who helped us cross from Marmaris to Haifa, who was such a pleasure to have on board, and whose parents are, unsurprisingly, just as delightful as he is. This is what we in Israel call “Salt of the Earth”.

Thanks to the many people from all over the world, who everywhere, every day, were there to help, without being asked, and without expecting a reward. This is what made this trip so great, all the beautiful places, delicious food, and incomparable Greek music being considered.

Update: Marmaris was a bureaucratic nightmare, but now that seems like a walk in the park.

Update: It turns out that these guys did have insurance, and we seem to be headed towards a satisfactory conclusion of that aspect of the trip.